Welcome and Hospitality
On our first full day in the country, we drove from Freetown, the capital and largest city, to Bo, the second-largest city. On the way, we made two stops in small towns off the main and relatively new highway. These visits to St. Thomas Church in Newton and King of Glory Church in Njala established a pattern we would experience at every subsequent stop. Someone from the community, even just a handful of women in tiny Newton, was out in front to greet us with songs and dancing. The Njala church, which had expanded since Bishop Gronberg’s last visit in 2018, even assembled a choir and musicians to provide some worship music. We were fed a massive meal with deliciously spicy jollof rice, fresh fish, chicken, and local fruit. There, ground was broken on a building to house university students from the nearby campus as both a local service and a revenue stream for the church. The congregation was eager to share their work with us, including a congregational savings and loan that allowed them to support each other through times of financial need.
Legacy of the Civil War
In the city of Bo, I started to notice the amount of razor wire on walls, often paired with shards of something that looked like metal or glass. It was a vivid reminder that for eleven years, from 1991 to 2002, Sierra Leone was consumed by a civil war. We stayed in a strange sort of hotel compound in Bo, one seemingly built in another era. It was behind a high wall with the ubiquitous razor wire and shards, with a huge metal gate. Behind the gate, at the main entrance, stood this statue of a local leader killed by the rebels in the civil war. We later met a man who shared his last name and was involved in journalism in Freetown, but I did not have the chance to ask if there was any connection.
Before our trip, I was told that Sierra Leone is a beautiful country, but I had no idea what to expect. The capital of Freetown is spread across the peaks and valleys of a coastal mountain range on a peninsula facing the Atlantic Ocean. Without ignoring the severe problems of that city and the whole country, it is a beautiful place reminiscent of mountainous coastal areas in California or Italy. In the provinces, we saw the mountains of the interior. In the evening, the sun strikes the omnipresent orange clay at an angle that makes the whole landscape feel lit from within.
We'll discuss this in more detail when we debrief the trip in adult education in January, but Sierra Leone ranks very low on the UN's Human Development Index. Per capita GDP is about $1600 per year. The civil war devastated schools and civilian infrastructure, and a history of resource extraction—most famously diamonds—has left the country under-developed. A striking number of signs proclaim the presence and funding of international non-governmental organizations for basic services like clinics. Most of us were very obviously outsiders and (correctly) assumed to have a lot more disposable income than almost anyone we were interacting with. This led to some emotionally complicated moments. It also led to some sweet interactions where our status as outsiders inspired people, especially young people, to mug for the cameras and chat us up.
Our hosts for the trip were the leaders and volunteers of the Evangelical Lutheran Church in Sierra Leone. We'll have much more to say about them and their work later. But it was inspiring and fascinating to join them in worship, see where they work, and get a close-up look at the ministries our synod and national church body have contributed to making possible. The gathering of the offerings in these churches was an event itself, a little party breaking out in the center of worship.
We’ll have lots more to share. Until then, feel free to ask either Soren or me any questions. We’re eager to talk about the experience. And thank you again for your steadfast support